Skip to content

Design Constraints for a Commercial Version of Catchup

June 4, 2013

design constraints

If you happen to follow the activities of yours truly, an obscure game designer in the hidden recess of the game world where abstract games lurk with suspicious eyes, you may know I’m thinking about publishing a real, physical, commercial version of my game Catchup. Launch is still a long way off and it could turn out to be a fool’s errand (abstract game publishing is hard), but I may do it anyway because I have accumulating evidence that Catchup will make a viable product.

Or I should say it has a chance of being viable, because designing a good game is only half the battle. The other half is product design, which I feel should be approached with the kind of thoughtfulness and attention to detail that Apple or Dyson brings to their products. Too many table game designers/publishers fail to fully harness the power of good design; I won’t be one of them.

To think through details, I’ve created a list of design constraints, and I’m posting them here for those interested in the physical design of games.

Some of the constraints may seem minor, but you have to go deep on the little things if you want to create an exceptional experience. The little things add up.

Catchup design constraints:

Embossed Board – The board should be embossed or otherwise have some way to hold the pieces snugly in an ordered grid. An example of game with this kind of board is Blokus – though the board for my game must feel more substantial and look more beautiful and warmer than that of Blokus. I’ve noticed many bestselling abstract games have this feature (Blokus, Othello); and the resulting ordered look of pieces on the board makes for extra visual appeal, and make the act of placing a piece on the board more satisfying. It would be great if such ridging could somehow be superimposed on cardboard, because cardboard allows for graphic design, is inexpensive, can be folded to allow for a large board, and doesn’t make a hollow/unpleasant sound when you place a piece on it.

One subtlety here, however, is that it shouldn’t be hard to remove pieces from the board at games’ end. It’s messy and noisy and annoying when you have to flip the board and dump the pieces into the box top to get them out. For this reason, perhaps the embossing/ridging/whatever should be somewhat shallow (as is the case for Blokus, in fact).

Close-Proximity Hexagons – The pieces must be hexagons which fit neatly onto the board in very close proximity to one another to make it easier to perceive contiguity between adjacent pieces. In Catchup, the individual pieces on the board don’t really matter; instead the pieces form contiguous groups with each other, and it’s those groups that matter. Therefore, the pieces should be designed so you don’t so see individual pieces but instead see groups. Therefore we should make the pieces as visually contiguous as possible. Look at the picture below. The group of elements on the left looks like one contiguous thing, whereas the group on the right looks more like a collection of individuals. In addition, the group on the left looks more appealing, to my eye anyway.

piece-shape

Not only does this aid players in strategizing, but just as critically, by making the pieces as large as the can be, we’ll make the game feel more substantial and generous, which is another important constraint I discuss below.

This requirement also constrains how the “ridges” that hold the pieces in place should designed: they can’t be too wide, because the wider they are, the less contiguous the pieces will be. Here again, Blokus is a good example: it’s ridges are very small and the pieces themselves “overhang” the ridges and so are perfectly contiguous. That’s exactly the configuration I’m looking for.

Stone-like Pieces – The pieces should feel smooth and heavy-ish, like stones. There is something subconsciously satisfying, therapeutic even, about holding pieces that feel smooth, stone-like, and substantial, as any Go player will tell you. This is why I’m interested in urea or similar substances, because the board games whose pieces come closest to having the feel I want use the stuff. Examples: Hive and Dvonn. However: I’ve read the Urea manufacturing process is toxic, so Urea itself may be disqualified thanks to the environmental friendliness constraint (below). Nonetheless I mention it to be clear about the kind of feel I want the material to have.

Matte Board + Matte Pieces – Sometimes during a game, someone asks either to adjust the board or adjust the light because a reflection is making it hard for her to see what’s happening on the board. When the problem isn’t severe, a little reflection can increase eye-strain and make a game subconsciously less satisfying to play. If everything has a matte finish, that won’t happen.

No Sharp Edges - The pieces should have no sharp edges. Same goes for the board. Everything should be just a little rounded, to contribute to the organic, stone-like feel described above, and to counterbalance the mathy minimalism of the hex grid. The tops of the pieces should be a little convex for the same reasons (meaning the picture above doesn’t get the shapes right – both the hexagonal spaces of the board and the hexagonal pieces have sharp corners/edges in the picture)

Satisfying Sounds – When a piece is placed on the board, it should make a pleasant sound, for example a substantial “clack”, or no sound. Anything but the hollow, abrasive “tink” of cheap plastic (here again, see Blokus) which is so common for abstract games. There’s something subconsciously satisfying/therapeutic about a nice sound, and again, see Go. This is challenging because it seems hard to hit the price point (below) with boards consisting of high quality materials. For example, ideally I’d like the board to be made out of the same stone-like stuff the pieces are made from, but that’s likely to be cost-prohibitive. Other possibilities:

  • thick, embossed, linen finish cardboard (is that even possible? UPDATE: maybe! I’ve read Space Hulk (third edition) has an embossed board)
  • silicone? I’ve never seen a game board made of silicone, but I’ve seen it look/feel really good in various kitchen utensils. Could *all* the components be made from silicone? I’m out of my depth here. One potential drawback of silicone: it has a sticky feel, which might make it hard to slide the pieces effortlessly into place on the board during play.
  • a hybrid: cardboard board with some kind of polymer ridges applied neatly on top. Example: the most recent edition of Blockers?
  • a double-layer board: two sheets of card board, one on top of the other, where the top layer has holes for the pieces (see Colorama for an example). I have doubts about whether the ridges holding the pieces in place can be sufficiently thin in this case. On the other hand, the pieces can have lips which overhang the ridges, to keep adjacent pieces fully contiguous.
  • If the board is to be folded, the ridges on the board could conceivably interfere with the folding. Perhaps there can be board sections that assemble like giant puzzle pieces to avoid this problem? Examples of games which use this technique: Rampage, Carcassonne: The Castle.
  • molded paper pulp?

Sense of Bigness/Thickness – The design should convey a sense of substance – of “bigness” and/or “thickness”. As the table game hobby has grown, many game publishers have discovered that big, luxurious boards and components are a huge turn-on for players (no doubt some have known it all along – Fantasy Flight Games, for example). In contrast, abstract games publishers often publish cramped games. I don’t know why, but it makes abstract games seem insubstantial. There’s no pleasure in huddling over a tiny board, struggling with your sausage fingers. Note: this constraint doesn’t require that the game be physically large, as long as ergonomics/design make the game *feel* generously proportioned.

Amazing Color Design – it should be tastefully eye-catching. It should also be deployed to make the game feel warm and organic and “different”. Non-abstract games publishers have gotten better at this recently. Look at the board pictured below, for example. Look at the way the dark perimeter makes the central yellow hexes look like they’re radiating light. Abstract games generally still have comparatively thoughtless color design (which isn’t to say Catchup should replicate the color design of the game below or any other particular game – I’m simply arguing for more thoughtful and professional color design in general).

good-color-design

A second requirement for the color design is that both players’ pieces should be easily distinguishable from each other, and, just as important, equally distinguishable against the background of the board. Take a look at this image of a published version of my game Produto:

produto

The light-colored pieces are much less distinguishable against the background of the board than the dark-colored pieces are. This both looks very imbalanced to me, and in practice I can feel extra strain in trying to comprehend the light player’s position, regardless of whether I’m playing as the light-player or the dark player. I want to avoid this.

Low Environmental Impact – This one is tough because I don’t know any game component manufacturers who take this issue seriously, but I believe we must improve how we use resources, and I want to help foment that change. Therefore, the manufacture of the game must be sustainable, mustn’t involve toxic processes or materials, the components must be easy to reprocess, and the game’s embodied carbon footprint should be as low as possible.

The Coffee Shop Test! – Bottom-line constraint: it should pass the coffeeshop test: i.e. set it up in a coffee shop with a sign that says “play me” and patrons start playing it. This strikes me as hard and the reason I need a great industrial designer. Actually carrying out this test could get expensive fast if early versions don’t pass, because a new prototype is needed for each test and prototypes are expensive. Still contemplating how to do it.

Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price – MSRP around $30-35, acknowledging it depends on the size of the print run.

Help! – If there’s anything here you think could be improved, PLEASE argue your case in the comments. I want to have a fierce discussion about how to make the project amazing. Who knows if I’ll have another opportunity to do this if the first attempt fails, so I want to scrap for every possible advantage. I’m much obliged.

[Update] There’s a discussion thread over at BGG about what I’ve written here, if you’re interested commenting on it.

color-design photo courtesy mikko saari

About these ads

From → Game Designs

5 Comments
  1. Very cool games you make :-)

  2. A couple of thoughts (sorry to be spamming your blog tonight!):

    * Have you seen Tantrix? I don’t know what material the pieces are made out of, but they have that heavy/substantial feel to them, at least to me. They look to me kinda like bakelite, which I guess urea evolved out of, so maybe they’re urea for all I know. Anyway, the pieces are hexagons with rounded edges. I think they’re somewhat similar to Hive pieces, but I’ve only seen Hive pieces once so I’m not sure.

    * I like what you’re saying about close-proximity hexagons, but that goal/constraint seems like it’s at odds with the goal of being able to remove them from the board easily. (Also the goal of being able to place them on the board easily.) So you could consider variations on hexagons. For example:

    A circle with six spokes radiating out from it.

    A hexagon with thumb indentations in the perimeter on two, or all six, of the edges. Or with thumb indentations in the perimeter on two or more of the corners–which is much like a circle with very very wide spokes.

    A large circle, larger than in your circles-vs-hexagons image, almost the radius of the hexagonal board spaces.

    And so on. My point here is that it doesn’t have to be a solid hexagon to give that visual-proximity look.

    • nickbentley1000 permalink

      Thanks for this thoughtful reply. Responses:

      I have seen Tantrix, and it is indeed made of urea. The pieces are very similar to Hive pieces except not as thick.

      I agree that the pieces don’t have to be solid hexagons, even if solid hexagons help for perceptual grouping. I have actually tried a number of the suggestions you’ve made here because, as you say, with solid hexagons you have to worry about how to get them off the board easily. But I’m back in favor of solid hexagons now because, with the help of an industrial designer, we’ve found a way to make them solid AND easily removable.

      But even this may be on hold for the moment because a game publisher is considering publishing Catchup, and if they publish it they’ll produce the set as they see fit, and it may not conform to the constraints I’ve outlined here.

Trackbacks & Pingbacks

  1. Closest Possible Game of Catchup? Lowest Possible Winning Score? | Nick Bentley's Abstract Games

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 521 other followers

%d bloggers like this: